Orange-yellow trumpet-shaped blossoms are borne in clusters atop a thick spike, usually held well above the straplike waxy evergreen leaves. Mine, a gift, was potted in a large pot and had considerable foliage. Being crowded for space, I placed it on an upturned box at the heater end of the greenhouse where the temperature remained at about 55 F. In February, when new growth was evident, I watered well and used a fish oil fertilizer about every three weeks. When I saw the flower bud and spike nestled at the base of the leaves, I moved the plant up into the brighter area but shaded it from direct sun. It remained there during March while it bloomed, then was returned to its spot by the heater. The fleshy roots resent disturbance, but they do crowd the container after a few years and repotting becomes necessary.
Use a mix of garden loam, clean sharp sand, and peatmoss. Foliage continues to develop during summer. November through December is a normal resting period, so hold back on water somewhat, but never let clivia dry out completely, and do not cut away the foliage as you would with its relative, amaryllis.
Inspect for mealy bugs in the tight areas where leaves curl around center growth. Propagate by seeds (six to seven years to first bloom), or by dividing large, multiple-crowned plants in January or just after March flowering.